Preprint / Version 1

Effect of the grip position on maximal fingertip force during a rock climbing gripping exercise


  • Stephan Göb Fraunhofer IIS
  • Patrick Matros
  • Michael Schöberl Fraunhofer IIS
  • Theresa Götz CIML Group, Biophysics, University of Regensburg, 93040 Regensburg, Germany



climbing, bouldering, finger-strength, training, performance, coaching


This study shows how the force distributes between the fingers with different grip positions and
whether there is a connection between force distribution and climbing ability. 20 male and 6 female
climbers of various climbing abilities volunteered for the study. We built a separated artificial
climbing grip like a ledge where each element of the width of one finger measures the holding
force of a finger. Our study showed significant differences in force production among individual
fingers in various grip techniques in climbing. The results show that the little finger plays a more
important role in higher climbing and bouldering performance level. So performance-oriented
climbers could benefit from focusing on this finger in both physical and coordinative training


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