Preprint / Version 1

Effect of the grip position on maximal fingertip force during a rock climbing gripping exercise

##article.authors##

  • Stephan Göb Fraunhofer IIS
  • Patrick Matros
  • Michael Schöberl Fraunhofer IIS
  • Theresa Götz CIML Group, Biophysics, University of Regensburg, 93040 Regensburg, Germany

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.51224/SRXIV.91

Keywords:

climbing, bouldering, finger-strength, training, performance, coaching

Abstract

This study shows how the force distributes between the fingers with different grip positions and
whether there is a connection between force distribution and climbing ability. 20 male and 6 female
climbers of various climbing abilities volunteered for the study. We built a separated artificial
climbing grip like a ledge where each element of the width of one finger measures the holding
force of a finger. Our study showed significant differences in force production among individual
fingers in various grip techniques in climbing. The results show that the little finger plays a more
important role in higher climbing and bouldering performance level. So performance-oriented
climbers could benefit from focusing on this finger in both physical and coordinative training
aspects.

References

Bal´a.s J, Pecha O, Martin AJ, Cochrane D. Hand-arm strength and endurance as predictors of

climbing performance. In European Journal of Sport Science, 2011.

Macleod D, Sutherland DL, Buntin L, Whitaker A, Aitchison T, Watt I, et al. Physiological

determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance andsport rock climbing performance. In Journal

of Sports Science, 2007.

Wall CB, Starek JE, Fleck SJ, William CB. Prediction of Indoor Climbing Performance inWomen

Rock Climbers 18(1). In The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 2004.

Grant S, Hasler T, Davies C, Aitchison TC, Wilson J, Whittaker A. A comparison of the anthropometric,

strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational

climbers and non-climbers. In Journal of Sports Science 19(7), 2001.

Grant S, Hynes V, Whittaker A, Aitchison T. Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexiblity

characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. In Journal of Sport Science 14(4), 1996.

Laffaye G, Levernier G, Collin JM. Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength,

anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue. In Scandinavian Journal of Medicine and Science in

Sports 26(10), 2015.

Giles LV, Rhodes EC, Taunton JE. The Physiology of Rock Climbing. In Sports Medicine 26(6),

Bal´a.s J, Mrsko.C

J, Pan´a.ckov´a M, Nick D. Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using

electronic scales in sport climbers. In Sports Technology, 2014.

Quaine F, Vigouroux L, Martin L. Effect of simulated rcok climbing finger postures on force

sharing among the fingers. In Clinical Biomechanics, 2003.

Schweizer A. Biomechanics of the interaction of finger flexor tendons and pulleys in rock climbing.

In Sports Technology 1(6), 2009.

Fuss FK, Niegl G. Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips. In Sports Technology

:3-4,p. 151-155, 2012.

Amca AM, Vigouroux L, Aritan S, Berton E. Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal

finger forces in rock climbing. In Journal of Sports Science 30(7), pages 669–677, 2012.

Fanchini M, Violette F, Impellizzeri FM, Maffiuletti NA. Differences in climbing-specific strength

between boulder and lead rock climbers. In he Journal of Strength Conditioning Research 27(2),

pages 310–314, 2013.

Vigouroux L, Quaine F. Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a

prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals. In Journal of sports

sciences 24(2), pages 181–186, 2006.

Watts PB, Dagget M, Gallagher PM, Wilkins B. Metabolic Response During Sport Rock Climbing

and the Effects of Active Versus Passive Recovery. In International Journal of Sports Medicine,

Quaine F, Vigouroux L, Martin L. Finger Flexors Fatigue in Trained Rock Climbers and Untrained

Sedentary Subjects. In International Journal Sports Medicine, 2003.

Schweizer A. Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. In Journal of

Biomechanics, pages 217–223, 2001.

Keller P, Schweizer A. Verticakl Secrets - Technik, Training, Medizin. In Turn Till Burn, 2011.

Vigouroux L, Quaine F, Paclet F, Colloud F, Moutet F. Middle and ring fingers are more exposed

to pulley rupture than index and little during sport-climbing: a biomechanical explanation. In

Clin Biomech (Bristol, Avon) 23(5), pages 562–570, 2008.

Shea KG, Shea OF, Meals RA. Manual demands and consequences of rock climbing. In The

Journal of hand sturgery 17(2), pages 200–205, 1992.

Isen J, McGue M, Iacono W. Genetic influences on the development of grip strength in adolescence.

In American journal of physical anthropology 154(2), pages 189–200, 2014.

Fink B, Weege B, Manning JT, Trivers R. Body Symmetry and Physical Strength in Human

Males. In American Journal of human Biology 26(5), pages 697–700, 2014.

Downloads

Posted

2021-11-25